Peruvian Amazon through a Child's Eyes

The Amazon through a Child's Eyes
By Susie Gavlik

"There are no seven wonders of the world in the eyes of a child. There are seven million." - Walt Streightiff

Emotions were running high as Justin bid farewell to four years of elementary school: a best friend moving to Indianapolis, a losing baseball season, and his father being unable to join him on his next adventure. He only found comfort in his upcoming voyage with Lindblad Expeditions -- a 3-night cruise in the Peruvian Amazon aboard the 28-passenger Delfin II.

The journey began in Iquitos, the largest city in the Peruvian rain forest and only accessible by air or water. As we boarded the comfortable Mercedes bus for the 90-minute drive to Nauta, the cruise's launching point, I could tell his anticipation was getting the best of him. Questions of "are we there yet?" and "how much longer, mom?" were incessant. How do you tell a 9-year-old to be patient when a trip of a lifetime is just moments away? When we arrived at the pier and were shuttled in a 10-passenger skiff a short distance to the vessel, his eyes grew wide as he realized he was about to set sail on the mighty Amazon and its tributaries. Once on board he was unable to contain his excitement as he grabbed my hand and pulled me toward the steps leading to the observation deck. With a Shirley Temple and glass of wine in hand, we toasted Lindblad as we wondered what the next few days held in store.

The first morning, before I even had time to press snooze on the ringing alarm, Justin sprung out of bed and declared "I had such a great sleep. Get up mom or we will miss the excursion!" We headed out in our skiff with our guide, Jesus, to begin explorations of the Upper Amazon. With just two full days on board, our guides went above and beyond to make the most of the experience. In true Lindblad fashion, we searched the canopy and riverbanks for signs of wildlife, swam with pink and grey river dolphins in Yanayacu Lake, fished and caught three ferocious red-bellied piranhas in primitive style with a stick and raw meat, and joined a chaotic soccer match with the local ribereños (Spanish for people who live along the river). Justin was having the time of his life. I was shocked when he emphatically stated "this is better than the Galapagos!"

Over the course of two days, I saw a change in my son. He was no longer the antsy, can't-sit-still-for-two-seconds child but was patient and silent as he listened to the cacophony of sounds from the rain forest. As thoughts of home were fading, he realized that he no longer missed the modern conveniences that we all take for granted. I could see him begin to engage with the larger world around him and give consideration to people other than himself, a large step for any 9-year-old to make. After a visit with local children who were just as curious about us as we were of them, Justin took off his t-shirt and rain jacket and presented them to one of the boys. We were told that each child had just one set of clothes, which were washed and worn daily. Justin later told me that he felt this boy was very much like him, but that he needed the clothes more than he did. For a parent, it is actions like this that bring tears to your eyes. At that moment, I knew the efforts I've made for him to be a student of the world and to see it through "Lindblad eyes" would forever transform him.

As our time to depart drew near, Justin became withdrawn and sad. Very much like his mother, he becomes attached and has difficulty saying goodbye. As we packed, the tears began to flow. "Why do we have to leave?" "I don't want to go home." "We will never see Jesus again." No words were able to comfort him, but I knew in time that this too shall pass just as it did with his Galapagos "romance." Along with his shirt and jacket, he was leaving a part of his heart in the Amazon. And though he doesn't realize it now, I as a parent know that what he gained in return was invaluable and immeasurable.

Notes from the Amazon . . .

This amazing Amazon journey was graciously hosted by Lindblad Expeditions and the owners of the Delfin II, Aldo Macchiavello and his wife, Lissy Urteaga. These two companies have partnered to offer 7-day cruises in 2010 and 2011.

The Delfin II is a 28-passenger expedition vessel featuring accents and décor from native Amazon artisans. With hardwood floors, rattan-draped sofas, wooden-slat hammocks, and a graceful modern design, it is a comfortable base for exploration. Each of its 14 suites offers panoramic river and rain forest views. Our favorites were the four Master Suites, located on the upper and lower decks at the bow of the ship, which feature oversized windows providing 90-degree views. There are also two sets of connecting Suites, wonderful for families. All rooms feature reading lights, closet, sitting area and desk. En suite bathrooms contain separate showers, sinks and toilets.

Open-seated dining is available in the air-conditioned dining room with the tables creatively set using locally available products. The freshest Amazon ingredients are integrated with local culinary traditions for a gastronomic adventure.

The program begins and ends in Lima and includes one night pre-cruise accommodation at the Ramada Costa del Sol Airport Hotel and one night post-cruise accommodation at the Miraflores Park Hotel, an Orient-Express property. Lindblad will organize flights between Lima and Iquitos, the gateway to the Amazon. Unlike other cruises in the Peruvian Amazon, the Delfin II's embarkation point is in Nauta vs. Iquitos, eliminating two days of cruising to reach the Pacaya-Samiria Reserve and its surrounding environs. This allows more time for in-depth explorations in motorized skiffs and on foot.

The Amazon River Basin is home to the largest rain forest on Earth. It contains the richest and most biologically diverse environment on the planet and spans nearly 3,000,000 square miles with a presence in eight countries in South America. There are two seasons in the Amazon -- wet (December through May) and dry (June through November). However, as there is always a possibility of daily rain showers (you're in the rain forest, of course!), the dry season designation is a misnomer! In fact, the Amazon only gets 10 percent more rain in the wet vs. the dry season. The only significant difference, in our opinion, is the method of off-boat exploration. Water levels recede significantly in the low-water season, allowing greater access to trails for on-foot exploration, while heavier rains in the high-water season temporarily flood the forest and provide deeper navigation opportunities by skiff.

No matter what time of the year you travel to the Amazon, you won't be disappointed as both seasons offer amazing wildlife viewing opportunities. The Peruvian Amazon aboard the Delfin II gives curious travelers of all ages another superb chance for exploration, education and discovery, courtesy of Lindblad Expeditions and Mother Nature's global classroom.  Contact Susie Gavlik for information on the Delfin II and other cruise options in the Peruvian Amazon along with any travel queries about South America!